The hair care industry has seen significant changes in recent years, especially for black consumers. With the increasing demand for textured hair products, the market has grown rapidly. Brands that were once considered niche have gone mainstream, but alongside this growth exists the troubling issue of product safety and the health risks associated with these products.
Recent studies paint a worrying picture of the cosmetic products marketed to black women. Research from the Silent Spring Institute has shown how many products commonly used by black women contain harmful chemicals. This study found alarming levels of hormone-disrupting substances in hair care products aimed at black consumers, raising questions about the industry’s responsibility to its customers.
Jessica Helm, lead author of the study from the Silent Spring Institute, explained, “We know from previous research that black women suffer disproportionately from hormone-related health problems. The study tested black women’s hair care products to see if they could be a source of some of the chemicals of concern, and it appears that this may be the case.” It turns out that many products aimed at caring for black hair are more likely to contain dangerous ingredients than products aimed at the general public.
The Environmental Working Group, which focuses on environmental health, has uncovered even more horrifying figures. Their findings showed that over 70% of hair care products aimed at black people contain dangerous ingredients, as opposed to just 40% of hair care products aimed at the broader market. It raises the question: is the hair care industry, especially for black people, failing them?
This failure is due in part to how the government regulatory system works—or rather, doesn’t work. While the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act of 1938 and the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act of 1967 establish rules to protect consumers, they do not require pre-market testing of cosmetics. This oversight allows companies to push potentially harmful products onto the market without oversight.
Misleading marketing compounds the problem. Terms like “natural” and “organic” can be misunderstood and, unfortunately, are sometimes used to disguise unhealthy ingredients. Surprisingly, it’s entirely possible for harmful chemicals to be labeled “natural” just because they appear on the periodic table – ammonia and bleach are prime examples. When consumers believe they’re choosing products free of harmful substances because of such clever marketing moves, the risk of exposure increases significantly.
To combat the proliferation of dangerous products, many Black influencers and bloggers have begun advocating for safer alternatives and holistic hair care practices. A number of online platforms now allow users to browse brands and find healthier options. These include apps like Detox Me and Skin Deep, which help consumers make informed decisions about the products they put on their hair.
Due to increasing awareness, many brands are offering natural and effective alternatives. Mielle Organics and Cantu Shea Butter in particular are making waves by offering alternatives with safe, nutrient-rich ingredients at reasonable prices. The widespread support of these brands reflects growing consumer demand for healthier products.
The Black hair care market has now found itself at the intersection of identity and commerce – an intersection where racial and social justice issues often find their way in. In her expert commentary, Ibi Meier-Oruitemeka of Afro Hair & Skin Co. stresses that brands must stay true to their original target audience and warns against diluting their mission in favor of mass appeal. She notes, “If everyone caters to everyone else, then quality and effectiveness will undoubtedly suffer.”
While this type of merchandising may seem like the right thing to do, deviating from authentic representation can alienate loyal customers if they feel that brands no longer meet their individual needs. Many black women recall cases where popular products were altered due to increased commercial interest, leading to disappointment as popular products disappeared from store shelves.
Interestingly, the environmental narrative is also increasing pressure on manufacturers to develop safer products. The movement toward sustainability is gaining ground. Brands like Alaffia and Sienna Naturals have gained recognition not only for their product safety, but also for their commitment to using ethically sourced ingredients. Sienna Naturals, founded by Issa Rae and Hannah Diop, focuses on clean, natural products for all hair textures without harsh chemicals.
Even the way hair care products are sold reflects these changes. Studies suggest that hair care products sold in neighborhoods with higher poverty and more people of color tend to be more dangerous. A recent study led by Marissa Chan of Harvard’s TH Chan School of Public Health brought these disturbing findings to light. Chan’s research focused on products sold in different Boston neighborhoods and revealed stark differences between neighborhoods, underscoring the urgent need for community engagement and reform.
Chan’s findings were part of a broader debate about beauty standards and consumer protection. She wants to host community workshops to educate people about identifying harmful ingredients and finding healthier alternatives. “It shouldn’t be the individual’s job to shop safely,” Chan says, emphasizing the need for systemic change across the beauty and personal care industry.
With the growth of social media platforms, particularly Instagram and TikTok, influencers have become major forces advocating for Black brands and safer products. The viral success of products like Mielle Organics’ hair oil, which sold out after being promoted by influencers, shows the strong connections between community, identity and commerce.
Still, there is also a concern about cultural appropriation when these products attract interest from non-Black consumers. Some white consumers are now turning to Black hair care products in hopes of nurturing their own locks. This phenomenon raises critical questions about ownership and representation in the beauty market. While such crossover interest can benefit Black brands by increasing their market presence, it can also frustrate longtime Black customers who may be marginalized as their favorite products disappear once they gain mainstream traction.
Marketing expert Marcus Collins weighs in on the topic, addressing the business side of the equation. He points out that brands have often avoided this niche in the past, arguing that the markets are too small to target. “Companies tell themselves the market is too small for us to waste our time on black people and people of color,” Collins said. He believes that when white consumers start buying these products, they inadvertently overshadow black women, shifting the market focus away from the people who have been the foundation of brands for years.
The history of black hair products is intertwined with racism and discrimination against natural hair, making the current situation particularly complex. Yet it is this history of resilience and innovation – demonstrated by the entrepreneurial spirit of pioneers like Madam CJ Walker – that shows the potential for real change in the beauty industry.
Progress requires constant vigilance and education. Brands must uphold their commitments to the health of the people and communities they serve. Hopefully, as demand for transparency increases, more brands will respond to calls for greater safety and product integrity assurances. Looking ahead, reforming the Black hair care industry will require collaboration between consumers and brands to achieve better health outcomes and ensure everyone can access their beauty products without fear of harm.
