Things you shouldn’t do if you have thin hair, according to stylists

If your hair slips out of an already shabby ponytail at the slightest movement, or you can clearly see parts of your scalp, you probably have thin or thinning hair. We know this can be distressing, so we spoke to two hairdressers to get their advice on what to do (and definitely avoid) if you have thin hair.

• Sheila Guillermo is a hairstylist at NYC THE TEAM, a hair salon founded by colorist Michelle Hong. Guillermo has over a decade of experience in the industry and specializes in blowouts, keratin treatments, updos, and bridal styles.
• Danielle Priano is a celebrity hairstylist with decades of experience in the industry. She has worked on several brand campaigns and has an accessories collection called PSxDanielle. Her previous clients include Vanessa Hudgens, Hailey Bieber, Mariah Carey and Hailee Steinfield.
• Mandy B is a certified trichologist and hair loss expert. She has over a decade of experience and started cutting, styling and coloring hair before specializing in scalp health. She offers virtual consultations and treatments through her own business, THairapy Wellness Center.

The two terms are used interchangeably, but they refer to different things. As mentioned, fine hair is about the thickness of each strand of hair, while thin hair is about density. You can have fine hair and experience thinning hair, but not all people with thinning hair have fine hair. Below we explain some common mistakes to avoid when styling fine and thin hair.

“Long hair can drag down fine hair and make it look even thinner. Without layers or some form of structure, it might just hang limply,” says Mandy.

However, you shouldn’t overdo the layers either. “Thin hair can be tricky. If you leave it too long without layers, you won’t get any volume. But if you cut too many layers, it can feel like you have even less hair,” explains Guillermo. “With this hair type, the line is thin. You need just enough layers to create volume and movement,” she adds.

You might think that thin hair would be less noticeable if you wear it short, but Mandy warns, “Extremely short hairstyles like buzz cuts or super short hairstyles can sometimes accentuate the thinness of the hair because there is less hair to create the illusion of volume.” The sweet spot? A blunt or slightly textured bob or a longer pixie with volume on top. Priano agrees, adding that “asymmetrical cuts or shoulder-length hairstyles with layers are other great options for those with thin hair.”

Guillermo recommends avoiding oil-based products and silicones, as they can make hair greasy and heavy. “Anything that says on the label that it’s ‘moisturizing’ can be good for dry ends, but should be avoided on the scalp and roots,” she warns.

In particular, avoid heavy oils and butters and use lighter oils like argan oil or jojoba oil instead. Again, use them sparingly and only on the ends, advises Mandy B.

Volume starts in the shower. “Choose clear or lightweight shampoos that are specifically labeled as volumizing. These products often contain ingredients like hydrolyzed proteins (e.g. silk, keratin) and panthenol, which can strengthen fine hair and make it appear thicker,” explains Mandy. “They are designed to add volume and fullness to your hair without weighing it down.”

Once you get out of the shower, Priano recommends using a lightweight leave-in conditioner that adds protein and provides heat protection (which is especially important if you use hot tools). Also, apply a root spray or mousse to damp hair before blow-drying to add extra volume and texture, which will add body to your entire head of hair.