Scotland’s premier performing arts festival has changed significantly since the turbulent 1990s, when artists would arrive in town with little change and a comedy program in their pockets and set up camp for a month.
Performing or attending the Fringe has never been more expensive. With that in mind, here’s a handy guide to getting the most out of the Fringe without breaking the bank.
If money is no object, we have our counter suggestions for you too. For every recommendation for cheap food, there is also our tip for the best place to dine during your stay in Edinburgh.
Where to stay?
For most, this is the biggest expense. Artists who plan to spend the whole month in Edinburgh know how expensive accommodation is during the Fringe. Shabby apartments occupied by Edinburgh University students during the rest of the year suddenly cost as much as run-down bachelor pads in Manhattan. AirBnBs are overwhelmed by the exorbitant prices and hotels are packed with American tourists demanding back their dubious inheritance.
Fear not. There are cheaper ways to stay in Edinburgh during the dreaded month of August. If you’re not particularly picky about sleeping partners, you’ll find a variety of shared rooms in hostels across the city. The cheapest we found is a bed for £28 (€32) a night in a 10-bed dorm at the a&o Edinburgh City. You’ll probably spend the night among nine farting, snoring, shagging 20-somethings, but it’s the cheapest city center accommodation for miles around.
If you fancy a bit of adventure, camping is also an option. While you’ll be a long way from the glorious Highland hikes that most campers come to Scotland for, Edinburgh is surrounded by campsites that offer affordable overnight accommodation for those who don’t fancy hot showers. The Mortonhall site of Meadowhead Caravan & Camping Park is just a 40-minute bus ride from central Edinburgh and charges just £20 (€23) a night for a one-man tent. If you’re bringing your camper and want electric hook-ups, the price rises to £47.50 (€55).
You may also want to consider accommodation outside of Edinburgh. The town of Dunfermline is just across the coast from Edinburgh. It only takes around 38 minutes from Dunfermline train station to Edinburgh Waverley and there are plenty of cheaper places to stay outside the capital.
And finally, you can do it as cheaply as possible like I did: ask all your friends who live in Edinburgh if they’ll let you stay on their couch for free – editors who care about travel budgets love this trick!
Do you have a lot of money? There are countless ways to spend a fortune on a stay in Edinburgh. Here’s our favorite – found via Google while, I repeat, sleeping on a friend’s couch.
Edinburgh’s charm lies in its dark, cobbled streets, lined on either side by imposingly tall grey stone Victorian buildings. It’s no wonder JK Rowling started writing Harry Potter here. Every corner exudes a magical charm that is quintessentially British. Where better to enjoy this atmosphere than at the Witchery by the Castle, a nine-bed boutique hotel on the hill of Edinburgh’s famous castle.
For around £1,000 a night, you can book a room in one of the Witchery’s gothic, wood-panelled suites, which come with four-poster beds. If you book through the website, you’ll receive a free bottle of champagne on arrival. This is an adults-only hotel that will take you back to your giddy childhood – assuming you’re not afraid of a spooky environment.
What is there to see?
When you go to the Fringe you tend to cram your schedule to the limit with shows. This year I’m being a little more cautious about the time it takes to get around and planning one-hour breaks between shows. With many of the shows costing around £12 (around €14), a full day of around five shows can fill up quickly.
Don’t worry. There is another festival within the Edinburgh Fringe Festival. The Free Fringe runs parallel to the official Fringe – it is included in its program – and runs from August 1st to 25th. This year the Free Fringe includes 370 shows, which makes almost 7,500 performances.
Shows are organised as either Free & Unticketed or Pay What You Can. The former is first come, first served for each performance, while the latter can be booked in advance through the Fringe website.
All Free Fringe shows are free on entry, but you will be persuaded to tip as you leave the festival. Even if you only save a few pennies, if you enjoyed the show, think of the artist who is probably spending a fortune just to get a bit of exposure at the festival.
Do you have a lot of money? Just buy tickets for all the shows you’re interested in. Most shows cost £20 or less, so a five-show day’s programme will probably cost you around £60.
If you’re keen to spend your hard-earned cash, shows are a little more expensive at the neighbouring Edinburgh International Festival (EIF). The EIF is the original professional arts festival, to which the Fringe came in 1957 as an avant-garde, unprogrammed alternative.
The EIF events, which feature pop acts, opera and classical orchestras, are available at the same prices as standard events. For example, if you want the best seats for a performance of Verdi’s Requiem by the Philharmonia Orchestra, you’ll have to pay a whopping £106.50 (€124), although cheaper seats can be had for as little as £22.50 (€26).
Where to eat?
“Man does not live by fringe comedy shows alone” – Jesus, probably.
As you run through the streets of Edinburgh, eager to see the next show – perhaps an adaptation of Shakespeare’s Hamlet told with sock puppets, or a musical about the Falklands War – you occasionally need to fuel yourself with some food.
To get the essentials done, you can always pop into Sainsbury’s and pick up things for a packed lunch. You won’t. Who has time for that? But at least we mentioned it. And for those unfamiliar with the British high streets, fast food restaurants like British bakery Greggs offer cheap quick meals like their legendary sausage roll.
For something more unique in Edinburgh, Nile Valley Cafe is just a stone’s throw from George Square Gardens – one of the main venues of the Fringe Festival – and will make you a great falafel wrap for around £5 (€6). Next door is Africano Wrap Place, which offers a similar offering. These two places are in the heart of the student quarter the rest of the year and are some of the best value fast food places in the city.
Slightly fancier but not too expensive is Chez Jules. This classic French restaurant has everything you’d expect from onion soup to beef tartare. There’s a fairly reasonable set price lunch menu at £10.90 (around €13) for two courses and £12.90 (€15) for three courses. And if you come for dinner, the delicious steak frites is still only £12.90.
And don’t forget to treat yourself to a unique Scottish delicacy: the deep-fried Mars bar.
Do you have a lot of money? Edinburgh is home to a number of Michelin-starred restaurants. Five restaurants in the city have received the coveted star award, and a further four have received a Bib Gourmand.
Technically outside of Edinburgh, in the neighbouring seaside town of Leith, there are three of these restaurants: Heron, Martin Wishart and The Kitchin. In Edinburgh itself you’ll find Timberyard and Condita. Both offer you an incredible experience with tasting menus that put local produce at the forefront.
If you’re staying at the Witchery Hotel recommended earlier, their lobster soup is almost a local legend. Even if you’re not staying there, it’s worth walking up to the castle and trying it.
Where to get a drink?
It’s not compulsory, but for many, part of taking part in the Fringe festivities includes ordering a few cheeky pints.
The price gouging of alcohol in the southern capital of the country has now spread to Scotland as well. If you’re not careful, you’ll barely get change back from 15 pounds (17 euros) for a round of two beers.
For a long time, the Black Bull metal bar was one of the cheaper and more distinctive hangouts in the centre. Unfortunately, it closed about six months ago. There is still hope for a cheap pint in central Edinburgh.
You can always count on cheap drinks in any Wetherspoons pub. The chain is known for cheap drinks in refurbished, beautiful premises and Edinburgh is no exception, with Standing Order being a particularly lovely place. Just a stone’s throw from some of our cheap eats recommendations is The Grapes. Not affiliated with a chain, it’s what the Brits like to call a ‘proper pub’, with traditional spirits, well-tapped Guinness and reasonable prices.
Do you have a lot of money? There are many upmarket pubs throughout Edinburgh, and if you fancy a good Scotch, you can always approach a bartender in one of the chic hotel bars in the centre, such as the Caley Bar at the Hilton Caledonian Hotel or the Bar Prince at the Balmoral Hotel.
For a truly unique drinking experience, head to Chaophraya. The Thai restaurant is on the fourth floor of the building and offers rooftop views across Edinburgh’s astonishing expanse. On a good evening, you can see from the castle to Arthur’s Seat while enjoying a sampling of the Thai-influenced cocktail menu. I particularly enjoyed the Siam Smile.
Enjoy your pony!
