I’ll tell you right now, one of my best beauty decisions was laser hair removal. As someone who loves being hair-free on my legs, bikini line, and arms (side note: I tried underarms but I found it too painful with more than one session, so keep that to yourself what you will), not having to think about shaving so often has really been a game-changer for me. This is especially true for ingrown hairs and hyperpigmentation. But as I’ve found with many beauty treatments, finding a good practice that treats darker skin hasn’t been as easy as I’d hoped.
With lasers, this is a problem that people with very fair skin and hair also have. Not all laser machines can tell the difference between hair and skin, so a special type of laser has to be used, which is why IPL doesn’t work for us either. It’s crazy to me that in 2024, the age of Earth, not all clinics in the UK have this technology, but more and more clinics are investing in it. With that in mind, it’s up to us as clients to ask the right questions to make sure we get the most out of our experience and don’t put our skin at risk. So here are the key things you need to know as a person of colour undergoing laser hair removal.
Before making an appointment, check the laser device used in the clinic
Unfortunately, as I mentioned, older equipment cannot accommodate darker skin tones, so if you choose a place that is stuck in the past and doesn’t keep its equipment up to date, you might be in for a shock. “In the past, some laser technologies were less effective or posed a higher risk for those with darker skin due to potential pigment changes or skin damage,” notes Kayleigh Hawkins, head trainer at Thérapie Clinic. “Since then, advances in laser technology and techniques have made it possible for people with a variety of skin tones, including darker ones, to safely undergo laser treatment.”
I have visited Thérapie and Pulse Light Laser clinics for successful laser treatments. Both have multiple outposts, and Thérapie has clinics across the UK (and Europe). Wherever you go, make sure they use machines with NDYag wavelengths, the only safe laser for use on darker skin. “The NDYag wavelength of 1064nm is most effective for dark skin tones,” says Hawkins. “NDyag is specifically designed to target hair follicles while minimising the risk of skin damage in those with darker skin tones.”
Be careful with sun exposure between appointments
When booking laser hair removal, you really should think about your holiday plans in between – yes, even if you have dark skin. The areas to be treated must not be exposed to the sun, and you will have to reschedule your appointments if you have even the slightest tan at follow-up appointments. Why? Well, sun-tanned skin is particularly sensitive, and laser treatment can cause painful irritation. Even in the UK, you must protect exposed skin from the sun. “Between laser appointments, it is important to ensure your skin is protected from UVA/UVB damage. A broad-spectrum SPF should be applied daily between treatments, whatever the weather,” says Hawkins.
You can increase the effectiveness of laser hair removal with good home routines
Ok, you’ve started your treatment and are well on your way to making your hair disappear for months. Now, my friend, it’s time to take your at-home routine to the next level. It’s time to treat your body to all the goodness you give your face by adding some skincare ingredients to your body care routine to avoid hyperpigmentation in the treated areas.
Hawkins recommends using a tyrosinase inhibitor, such as azelaic acid, kojic acid, and vitamin C. “A tyrosinase inhibitor is an ingredient that stops new pigmentation from forming while lightening existing pigmentation on the skin. This product should be applied morning and night under your sunscreen throughout the laser treatment.” I know the combination of “lightening” and “skin” can be panic-inducing, but these products are all low-dose, over-the-counter, and work specifically to even out skin tone if hyperpigmentation is present or may occur. They will not lighten your skin color overall.
Oh, and don’t forget your scrub, girl
This will rid your skin of dead cells, which will encourage renewal and prevent ingrown hairs from forming. If you have naturally frizzy hair, you’re more prone to this annoying problem, which then often leads to hyperpigmentation in the area due to the skin injury. The pros recommend a chemical peel instead of a physical peel to avoid unnecessary surface irritation. “Using an AHA/BHA peel will encourage the hairs destroyed by the laser to fall out, preventing ingrown hairs from forming, and keeping the area bright and smooth,” notes Hawkins.
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