Every day I scroll through TikTok and come across new and interesting beauty hacks. Some are good, like learning exactly where to apply my blush to make my cheekbones look perked and angelic, or how to do a sleek bun that lasts all day. But others seem to have landed on my FYP just to test my patience.
When trends like this emerge, I barely take a breath before digging through my (digital, metaphorical) Rolodex for the right expert to help me debunk the weird and wonderful claims.
That was the case this week when I was suddenly confronted with a trend that made me stop and think, “Hmm, that can’t be right?” The trick is a scalp massage and the benefit is visible hair growth.
Countless videos feature (mostly) women with long, luscious locks extolling the benefits of a scalp massage. “I do a lot for my hair growth… but a scalp massage has helped tremendously,” says one TikToker who has the longest, thickest mane I’ve ever seen. “Believe it or not, but a scalp massage is clinically proven to improve hair growth,” says another.
Both creators have such thick and beautiful hair that I think the only reason for this can be a genetic jackpot. And both also claim that scalp massages are so good at promoting hair growth because they increase blood flow. Let’s check the facts, shall we?
Does a scalp massage promote hair growth?
The simple answer to this question is that there is no scientific evidence that scalp massage promotes hair growth.
That it is “clinically proven to improve hair growth,” as the TikToker above claims, is also categorically false. “There was a study done in 2016 with nine patients… (but) it has no scientific validity whatsoever because the numbers are very small,” explains medical and cosmetic dermatologist Dr Ritu Gupta, who practices at Dr Refresh Medical and Aesthetic Dermatology in Sydney. “One study means nothing, especially with numbers like that. So I guess the answer to the question is no, there is no scientific evidence to support it, but no studies have been done.”
Dr. Gupta also cautions against using scalp massage devices, as any forceful action on the scalp can snag and pull out hair. “It could actually make hair loss worse, it could cause inflammation,” she says, adding that it can worsen the condition if you have skin conditions like seborrheic dermatitis (the medical term for dandruff), psoriasis or even folliculitis.
Is there a good reason to massage your scalp?
Just because a scalp massage doesn’t have any significant benefits for hair growth or health doesn’t mean you have to give up the practice. “A massage with your hands is wonderful and relaxing, it relieves tension,” says Dr. Gupta. “Yes, it will increase blood flow a little, but the scalp already has excellent blood flow, as anyone who has ever cut their head knows.”
Massaging the scalp is probably not harmful, but telling people it will help with hair loss is harmful. “There are much better, medically and scientifically proven, well-studied and well-documented treatments that are very inexpensive,” says Dr. Gupta. “When I see people with hair loss, they have often wasted thousands of dollars and years on treatments that have no scientific basis.” She adds that this is often the case with people who suffer from acne, too.
What can you do about hair loss?
A certain amount of hair loss (about 150 hairs) per day is normal. But you know your hair, so if you notice a lot of hair on your pillow or in your shower drain, it may be time to seek the advice of an expert.
“People have a sense of what is normal for them. If they notice they are losing more hair or their hair is not growing, the first thing they should do is see a dermatologist,” says Dr. Gupta, who expressed frustration with the misinformation circulating online on the subject. “We are the only specialists in hair, skin and nails.”
Unfortunately, over-the-counter products like medicated shampoos are generally not enough to solve the problem. “Shampoos and conditioners affect the hair shaft (or strand) but have no effect on the hair bulb,” says Dr. Gupta.
“Hair loss is not about hair breakage, that’s a problem with the hair strand. Like brittleness, which is usually due to over-styling or rarely due to certain vitamin deficiencies or poor nutrition. But when we talk about hair loss, it comes from the hair bulb, so nothing you do on the surface is going to make a difference.”
She adds that you could use a minoxidil lotion from the pharmacy, but a visit to the dermatologist will give you much more effective and affordable options. Dr. Gupta also explains that while a visit to the dermatologist can be expensive, you’ll probably only visit them twice in total to find an effective hair loss protocol.
