Who doesn’t love smooth and shiny hair? Nowadays, people are opting for various hair treatments. Novelty hair treatments have become a staple in the beauty industry. Traditionally, straightening used formalin (Brazilian Blowout), which was considered harmful to the health of both the recipient and the practitioner. This led to the development of alternatives such as glycolic acid. In-salon hair straightening treatments often use keratin to achieve silky smooth hair. However, there is growing evidence that such products can cause kidney damage.
A recent report from Israel highlighted the serious effects that this hair straightening chemical (glycolic acid) can have on the kidneys. Between 2019 and 2022, 26 cases of acute kidney failure (including two recurrent cases) were reported from 14 centers. All of the affected individuals were women in their 20s, and the kidney disease was so severe that three patients required dialysis. In addition, a study published in the New England Journal of Medicine (NEJM) suggested that keratin-based hair straightening products containing glyoxylic acid increase the risk of acute kidney failure (AKI) due to the formation of oxalate crystals in the kidneys.
How can hair straightening cause kidney damage?
When we spoke to Dr. Vaibhav Keskar, Consultant Nephrologist at Fortis Hospital and Dr. Abhishek Shirkande, Consultant Nephrologist and Kidney Transplant at SL Raheja Hospital, they told us that the compound glyoxylic acid passes through the epidermis and is systematically absorbed into the bloodstream where it is rapidly converted into glyoxylate. Glyoxylate eventually metabolizes oxalate which is toxic to the kidneys. Using glyoxylic acid for hair straightening leads to deposition of calcium oxalate in the kidney tissues and the kidneys cannot function properly.
In severe cases, dialysis may be required. Sometimes the injury can lead to permanent loss of kidney function. Local burning/itching or ulcers after treatment may be early signs that should not be ignored. Early detection and timely treatment can help reduce the risk.
Therefore, caution should be exercised when choosing keratin treatments. These treatments should be used sparingly and according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
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