Zoe Clark, hairdresser and manager of Inco hair salon in Auckland, says the best way to test is to apply a patch of colour behind the ear if you’re unsure about the ingredients or are trying something for the first time.
“If you feel heat, irritation or inflammation, avoid that product,” she says. “In most cases, our professional products contain fewer chemicals. Over-the-counter products are pre-made formulas, whereas in the salon we customize the formula based on your hair’s history in terms of previous color and hair density and texture. Many hair dyes also contain ammonia.”
The use of dyes containing ammonia can increase the risk of irritation. The strong smell can also irritate the respiratory tract and cause coughing or breathing difficulties if exposed for a long time.
Ammonia is used in hair dyes because it helps open the hair cuticle, the outermost layer of the hair shaft. This allows the dye molecules to penetrate deep into the hair cortex and permanently change the hair color.
However, ammonia-free hair dyes are becoming more common. These use alternative chemicals such as MEA (monoethanolamine) to achieve similar results with potentially less damage and irritation. Natural dyes such as henna or plant-based dyes can also be gentler on the hair and scalp.
Salons often have access to high-quality ammonia-free dyes and can customize treatments to minimize damage while achieving desired results.
It can also be difficult to achieve the exact shade you want and home dye kits can produce inconsistent results, especially if they are not applied evenly or if the hair has been dyed before.
Applying the wrong color from the start or having unrealistic expectations for a dramatic color change can lead to disappointment. Clark says it’s also important to consider your hair type, as everyone’s hair absorbs color differently.
“In addition to texture, think about the moisture and porosity of your hair,” she explains. “If it’s dehydrated and/or porous, don’t leave it in too long to avoid it getting too dark.”
But for many people who enjoy dyeing their hair themselves, the advantages of dyeing their hair at home outweigh the disadvantages.
Tips from fans of home dyeing
Louise, a former platinum blonde who is now brunette, prefers to dye her hair at home because she also gets hair extensions, making cost a big factor. She says she spends $15 to $30 on a “good” boxed hair color and it takes her 40 to 60 minutes to do it, as opposed to three hours at the salon.
“It can be tricky to apply to make sure you reach all the areas you need to color,” she admits, “but you can use the excess color for your eyebrows!”
“I think it’s like fake tan; once you’ve done it a few times, it’s not so bad,” says Renae, a brunette. “Finding the right color is almost the hardest part, like finding the natural color when you just want to cover gray hairs so the regrowth isn’t too obvious. Your hairdresser can definitely find and cover all the gray hairs better!”
For many of the mothers I spoke to, time was a deciding factor in their decision to do it themselves.
Hannah, a brunette mother of two, says: “I never get around to making an appointment, let alone sitting in the salon for two hours. At home I can do it myself when the kids are in bed!”
However, almost all of them mentioned that they miss the pleasant experience of a visit to the hairdresser.
“The lack of the relaxed salon atmosphere and beautiful hair” is the biggest disadvantage of dyeing at home, according to Lisa, who has copper-colored hair herself. But since she has red hair, she would have to go to the salon every four weeks and the associated costs are too high.
“If I were blonde or had highlights, I wouldn’t dye my hair the color myself,” she admits, “but since it’s just one shade, I think it’s great.”
Before you start coloring your hair at home, Clark says you should think about the future of your hair and what you want to achieve with it in the long term.
“Do you want to use something lighter in the summer, add more dimension, or change the shade at some point?” she asks. If you’ve used a strong chemical color at home, this can make it difficult to change later.
Lucy Slight is a beauty and lifestyle columnist for HeraldShe has worked in print and digital publishing in New Zealand and Australia for the past 17 years, for several well-known titles in fashion, beauty, entertainment, food and home. She recently explained How to care for your hands this winterwhether all children gentle bath products on the skinand the Skincare artisans use.
