Hooters vs. Twin Peaks: Who makes better bar food?
Who makes better bar food? Inside Hooters and Twin Peaks.
During the summer, many independent restaurants in Southwest Florida are quiet, and many offer limited-time specials to fill diners until the snowbird season begins.
But using the female anatomy to fill the seats at a sports bar?
The word for this is “Breastaurants,” a nickname originally given to Hooters, founded in Clearwater in 1983.
Texas entrepreneur Doug Gillen, founder of Bikini’s Sports Bar & Grill, trademarked the word even though he did not invent it. Gillen’s chain closed in 2018.
Locally, two hope to tickle your taste buds: Hooters and Twin Peaks. This was JLB’s first-ever visit to both in Naples on consecutive Thursdays at 5 p.m.
What do they have in common?
- Debatable dress code for female servers. The promotional images are more offensive than what you’ll experience inside, where mostly fresh-faced young women work hard for the money. Unlike the original Playboy Clubs, the uniforms at both chains aren’t nearly as outrageous or offensive as a bunny costume.
- National Beauty Pageants: The title of “Miss Twin Peaks” 2024 was awarded to waitress Lacy Comer from Fort Myers.
- As a middle-aged woman who dines anonymously, JLB is often shown to the worst table when she visits a restaurant. This was not the case at either of the two restaurants where I was offered the choice between a standing table and a booth.
- Enthusiastic and attentive service, even if there are occasional glitches.
- Both are quite noisy, but many restaurants – from fine dining to fast food – seem to have this problem at the moment.
Remember New York Times’ When former restaurant critic Frank Bruni gave Robert’s Steakhouse at The Penthouse (yes, the magazine) club in New York a one-star rating (the equivalent of “good”), I wondered if Hooters or Twin Peaks could survive on food alone.
You could.
Hooters
I visited my friend Valerie Miller, author and editor of the practical Naples Restaurant Guide and Old Time Recipes, now in its 18th year.
Our booth was across from the bikini wall, which was somewhat ironic because Val’s Hollywood career began when she wore a bikini wall while briefly living in Hawaii and caught the eye of the original casting director of “Hawaii Five-0” without the need for a beauty pageant. It became her regular temporary job, earning $35 a day, plus a catered lunch that she still remembers fondly.
What we ate
Unlike me, she was no Hooters newbie because one of her best friends loves the famous wings.
The best thing JLB can say about her?
Lots of options to mix and match depending on your spiciness and flavor preferences. Four varieties including breaded, baked, Daytona (naked with a special sauce) and boneless, plus a choice of 11 sauces and five dry marinades. You can also specify drumettes or flats.
Next came a chicken quesadilla whose guacamole was already starting to oxidize.
Best thing we’ve ever eaten? Alaskan snow crab claws, sold by the pound (currently $20), are a bargain considering someone else is cleaning up the mess.
The crab was good and was served with two leg crackers, lemon slices and a clear plastic cup of melted butter.
JLB doesn’t like warm or hot drinks served in plastic bottles. Aside from the fact that it smells cheap, I’m also afraid of chemicals leaking out.
It took a few minutes before we could wave down tiny forks (again, made of plastic) for our waitress to scoop the meat out of the bowls, but that was the only flaw in the service.
Large servings of strong drinks taste like their price. Val’s $5 “83 Rita” was more balanced than my sweet $8 “Lime in the Coconut.”
Twin Peaks
When I arrived at Twin Peaks, new to Coastland Center, I scanned the room for my companion, but saw mostly men at the bar inside and the surrounding high-top bars.
A few minutes after the hostess escorted me to a few tables of her choosing, my dining companion for the day, News summer intern Ellessandra Taormino, a Naples High School graduate and third-year student at Barnard College, called from her car to ask if I was inside.
After confirming that I was seated, she came in a moment later.
Why this hesitation?
“I wouldn’t be here alone. It’s not a place I would hang out or go to. If I came here alone and saw someone I knew, I don’t know how to explain it; that would be a really awkward situation.”
She also feared that “if I stand at the reception desk long enough, someone might think I’m applying for a job and not eating here. But I don’t know if I’m necessarily what they’re looking for.”
Although she visited Hooters once years ago, she added, comparing it to Twin Peaks, “I find that store has a more sexualized vibe in terms of the way they dress their employees. Since I’m turning 21 this year, it’s totally realistic that some of the girls are my age, and that feels kind of uncomfortable.”
Whether it is family friendly or not?
Aside from the wait staff, we didn’t see any female Gen Z members. However, there were several tables with families and a handful of couples.
“I don’t want to be here with my parents as a teenager,” Taormino said.
So what is the appeal?
JLB believes this is largely due to affordability, especially before 6pm. There are ample portions for sharing and you get a lot for your money.
What we ate
We ordered three appetizers, each $5. The queso and chips reminded me of something I had at the Taco Pit in Paramus Park in 1977. The Billionaire Bacon was so spicy I almost choked, but if you can handle the heat, you might love it.
Mozzarella cheese bites? Addictive.
Twin Peaks is known for its extensive selection of iced beers, but I prefer cocktails and opt for a gin-based cucumber cooler. It was refreshing, strong enough and not too sweet.
Although I am not a prudish person, the list of cocktail names includes some that I would have tried but didn’t dare say out loud.
The tamest is a “porn star martini.” Some of them are unprintable.
As for the mains, the avocado smash burger with cheese (more like a guacamole burger) was large and nicely presented. The lobster mac and cheese with applewood bacon, roasted corn and red pepper sounded great, but ours was a tad too dry. The few pieces of shellfish are understandable given the $15 price tag.
If If I were to come back, it might be a dish that deserves a second chance.
Many restaurants in the city – regardless of price range and location – don’t employ their own pastry chefs, so we asked if any of the desserts were made in-house. According to our waiter, there was only one: two amazing apple turnovers with bowls of vanilla ice cream and warm caramel, undoubtedly the best thing we’ve eaten.
At the same time as I was photographing the exterior of the restaurant, a group of older gentlemen came out and started posing when they saw my camera.
They quickly moved away from my lens when I mentioned that this was for the newspaper. (Note: I was wearing my press pass after a quick visit to the new Bahama Breeze next door.)
The winner
Although JLB detests the concept, the food at Twin Peaks is better.
Restaurant news: 3 deals include Truluck’s, new on Marco Island, boozy dinners
Details
Twin Peaks
2078 Ninth St. N., Naples; 239-465-0005 and 16411 Corporate Commerce Way, Fort Myers; 239-245-9559; twinpeaks.com
Hours: Sunday to Wednesday 11am to midnight, Thursday until 1am, Friday and Saturday until 2am
Etc.: Big TVs everywhere, smaller ones at the booths. All screens seem to loop a video every 15 minutes of Twin Peaks girls (some surgically enhanced) posing and dancing suggestively. The video, however, complies with the City of Naples’ building code.
Restaurant news: 3 deals include Truluck’s, new on Marco Island, boozy dinners
Hooters
3625 Gateway Lane, Naples, 239-677-4180; 1600 Estero Beach Blvd., Fort Myers Beach, 239-790-0251; 4411 Cleveland Ave., Fort Myers, 239-766-7950; 3120 Del Prado, Cape Coral, 239-424-9855; hooters.com
Hours: Monday to Thursday 11am to 11pm, Friday and Saturday until midnight, Sunday until 10pm
Etc.: Sufficient parking spaces.
This article was written by staff writer Diana Biederman. Contact us at [email protected]. Our restaurant critics wrote under the Jean Le Boeuf brand. for over 40 years. JLB pays for her meals and always eats anonymously, unless she is recognized.
