Mt. Shuksan, a glaciated massif in North Cascades National Park in Washington State, is a gem. Shuksan means “high peak” in the Lummi language. At 2,867 meters high, it is a brother of the mighty volcanoes of the Cascade Range. The mountain’s most impressive feature is the “Summit pyramid‘ – formed by three flanks leading to the summit. This mountain, over the Sulphide Glacier Routeoffers an excellent mountaineering experience for beginners and advanced climbers. It has it all – glaciers, rocks and moderate elevations. After conquering Mt. Shuksan, I suggest you add the following iconic mountains of the Pacific Northwest to your climbing resume in the following order:
Mount Adams: This stratovolcano stands at 12,281 feet, making it the second highest peak in Washington state, and is known for its symmetrical appearance and less frequent eruptions. Mountain hood: Mount Hood is at 11,240 ft., making it the highest peak in Oregon. It is a potentially active stratovolcano and a great destination for climbing and skiing. Berg Baker: This peak in northern Washington rises to 10,781 feetIt is the second most glaciated mountain in the lower 48 states, making it a formidable challenge for climbers. Aside from its potential volcanic activity, Mt. Baker is one of the snowiest places on Earth. Mount Rainier: Mt. Rainier stands 14,411 feet. and is the highest peak in the Cascade Range and Washington State. This active stratovolcano is the most heavily glaciated mountain in the lower 48 U.S. states.
Contact a professional guiding company that frequents the North Cascades for the safest and most enjoyable climbing experience. Elite Guide Companies Mountain madness simply bring a group of climbers to the summit via the challenging ‘Fisherman’s Chimney Route‘. Mountain Madness is accredited by the American Mountain Guides Association.
“What fun! The Fischer Chimneys Route on Mount Shuksan has it all – snow, ice and rock. With unforgettable passages like ‘The Fat Man’s Misery’, ‘Hell’s Highway’ and ‘Winnie’s Slide’, it’s always interesting on this route. Finishing off with the spectacular southeast ridge of the Summit Pyramid, you end up with one of the most beautiful intermediate alpine routes in the Cascades – a really cool route!” – Mountain madness
The Sulphide Glacier Route is the most popular and accessible route, which involves an easy glacier ascent followed by a scramble to the summit pyramid. It is the least technically demanding of the main routes and is suitable for climbers with moderate experience. The glacier walk is relatively gentle and ends with a final 240-metre scramble over rocks to the summit.
The Fishermen’s Chimney Route is more challenging and requires a combination of rock climbing, steep glacier walking, safety in dealing with exposure and technical navigation. The route involves climbing a series of steep rock steps that require careful movements and possibly short rope. Once above the chimneys, climbers traverse the Upper Curtis Glacier and rise Winnie’s Slidea steep snowfield before the last summit pyramid is reached.
The North Face Route is a more technical climb suitable only for experienced mountaineers. This route involves steep ice and snow climbing as well as challenging rock sections. It is less often attempted due to the technical demands and the need for precise timing to ensure good conditions. The route is known for its exposure and requires solid ice climbing skills and experience with complex glacier hikes. Each of these routes offers a different perspective on the rugged beauty of Mount Shuksan, making it a versatile mountain that can challenge climbers of all experience levels.
