Image by Martha Williams
Eleven years ago, Chef Octavio Aguirre came to Atlanta with a dream to bring his Mexican culture to the South. To his surprise, his salsas were too spicy and his mezcals too strong. Coming from a family of jimadores (agave farmers) and taqueros (taco experts) in Jalisco, he didn’t want to miss the opportunity to showcase the tasty Mexican cuisine he grew up with. So, with the help of his wife, Roxana Aguirre, he took it upon himself to expand Atlanta’s palate.
Just off Peachtree Road in Buckhead is Pata Negra Mezcaleria, the couple’s third Atlanta restaurant. The black walls, dried maguey roots hanging from the ceiling, and shiny harvesting tools on display create an inviting, mezcal-focused ambiance. The distinctive decor is eye-catching, as is the impressive selection of agave spirits behind the bar. Forgoing celebrity-endorsed brands and syrupy margaritas, Pata Negra’s cocktail and spirits program opens a door to the history and tradition of Mexico’s agave plant, offering a selection of spirits rarely found outside the country.
Mezcal is often and rightly compared to tequila. Tequila is a type of mezcal made specifically from the Blue Weber agave plant. Mezcal is made from over 30 different species of agave, offering different tones and aromas. Smoke is the most commonly cited flavor note, followed by others depending on the agave and distillation process: earthy, peppery, citrusy, vanilla, and even leather. The normally clear liquor can sometimes take on a soft yellow color when aged. “It’s like wine,” says Roxana, an agave spirits sommelier who owns Ancestral Bottle Shop in Westside Paper. “Different agaves, regions, and production processes produce different flavor profiles.”
Mezcal, which has been around since the 16th century, has found its way beyond Mexico’s borders in recent years. From 2003 to 2023, demand for mezcal in the United States increased by nearly 300 percent.
As mezcal becomes more popular and mass production of the spirit increases, Atlanta bartenders are getting creative in creating mezcal cocktails. Chef Octavio recommends paying attention to the spirit being served. “You don’t want to water down the mezcal with sugar water,” he says. “Read the bottle and opt for spirits made from 100 percent agave.” Small-batch Mexican brands that have stayed true to their traditions and use artisanal processes — like 5 Sentidos, Tio Pesca, Pescador de Sueños, Vago and Los Siete Misterios — have become easier to find behind bars in Atlanta.
Bartender Antoaneta Boyanova at Atlas in Buckhead offers the refreshing Hibiskiss, a sweet, citrusy, floral cocktail made with Banhez mezcal. For coconut and tart notes, order the Southern Passion cocktail, but ask that the rum called for in the recipe be replaced with Banhez mezcal for a smokier flavor.
If you’re looking for a lighter cocktail, pick up José Buitrago’s Matsuyama’s Jacket at Umi. Inspired by the first Japanese professional golfer to win the Masters, the cocktail uses citrus and shiso syrup to highlight the Los Siete Misterios mezcal, with a slightly spicy finish.
Jose Pereiro’s Piña Cocktail at MidCity in Midtown offers another mezcal experience. Here, the pineapple takes a back seat, allowing the smoky flavor of Los Siete Misterios mezcal to dominate in the carbonated draft cocktail, reminiscent of hard seltzer. For the more adventurous, the Elote cocktail with sweet corn offers a gentler introduction to the world of mezcal, with milder flavors of the strong alcohol.
Mezcal in Atlanta can also be enjoyed as it was intended: neat and at room temperature. Choose one of the tasting options at Patria Cocina in Grant Park or ask at the mezcal cart at Pata Negra for expert advice. When you’re ready to share your mezcal with friends, visit Roxana at Ancestral to find rare artisanal bottles with unique stories.
“Mezcal is not a trend,” says Roxana. “It’s a lifestyle.”
This article appears in our August 2024 issue.
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